The McGrew Trail

Southern Oregon’s First Road to the Sea

One of the more unique opportunities for experiencing history on the Highway 199 corridor can be found on a road known locally as the McGrew Trail. The official name of this road when it was constructed in 1857 was the A plank road going through the redwood forest of California. The planks are called puncheons. Puncheon and Turnpike Road. The picture to the right shows a puncheon road through the redwoods. Puncheons are planks of wood put side to side to make a solid surface for roads going through areas that are prone to making deep mud after rain.

At the highest point of this road, near the California border, there was a supply stop called McGrews Station. This may be why many people call this historic route McGrew Road or McGrew Trail.

The road was constructed so freight wagons could bring supplies from the port town of Crescent City to the gold fields and inland pioneer settlements of southwest Oregon. Most of this road is still intact and offers an opportunity to experience the travel route and scenery that was seen by freight wagon drivers and passengers in stagecoaches in the earliest days of settlement in Oregon and California.

When the road was constructed in 1857, a 20 year contract was signed with a local company to do regular repair work that was needed to keep the road open. However, in 1877 the contract expired and the road fell into disrepair. Since that time, erosion has turned this route into a challenging 4x4 driving experience.

The most rugged part of the route, the part most people refer to as the McGrew Trail, is a 25 mile section between O’Brien, Oregon and Sourdough Flats Junction, California. The second half of the route, the part in California, is on generally well graded roads.

The album of photos in this article were taken during a recent trip over the McGrew Trail with Dave Paulsen, owner of Dave’s Outdoor Equipment in Cave Junction, Oregon.

Preparing for the trip

Some parts of this historic road can put you in places that can be up to 15 miles from the nearest town or residence. Take plenty of water, food, jackets and emergency supplies.

Always carry a Forest Service, topographical maps, or other maps that give details of roads and trails in the region of this historic route.

Rattlesnakes may be found along much of the route. Watch where you step and enjoy them from a distance if you should be lucky enough to find one. There is no need to kill rattlesnakes in the backcountry.

Hornets can also be a big problem at certain times of the year. They are attracted by meat and cheese or other foods that might have animal fat and oils. The best policy is to keep meats and cheeses sealed in a zip-lock bag, put all bones and uneaten foods in a zip-lock bag, and assure your hands and face are clean and free of the smell of food. Hornets, also known as meat bees, are the janitors of the forest but their bite can be very painful, especially on children who have a little fried chicken grease on their hands or face.

If you find yourself stranded, keep in mind that the historic Wimer Road runs below the old Turnpike and Puncheon Road in the Diamond Creek drainage. There is considerably more traffic on this road than you will find on the McGrew Trail. If you are in the McGrew Mountain area, the best way to get down to this road is on a connector road near Taylor Peak. If you are on the Cedar Springs side, consider going in the direction of Oregon Mountain where you will connect in with the Wimer Road and might encounter additional traffic coming up the old Gasquet Toll Road. If you are on the west side of McGrew Mountain, you may want to consider walking toward Sourdough Flats Junction where the Wimer Road merges with the McGrew Trail (Turnpike and Puncheon Road). There is a good possibility of encountering people driving on the Wimer Road as well as campers driving up from Sourdough Flats. From the Sourdough Flats Junction, the nearest center of human activity would be at the Smith River crossing where there is a campground and residences. Carry a day pack with you that can be used to carry water incase you need to walk for help. Temperatures can drop as much as 50 degrees once the sun goes down. It can get very cold at night in the higher elevations followed by this historic road. Carry a jacket as a precaution.

I have not personally tested the route for cell phone reception but the ridge tops that the road follows should provide some promising opportunities for making connections. It is always best to travel with other people in other vehicles when going over this route.

At least 80% of this route goes through the largest serpentine rock exposures in the nation. Vegetation is naturally small and dissipated, and the Biscuit Fire of 2002 has burned a great deal of what little vegetation there was. The combination of these two factors means there isn't much shade along most of the route. A hat, sunglasses and sunscreen is recommended.

The route can be extremely rough in some areas. ATV and/or very high clearance 4x4 are the best mode of motorized transportation over this route. Standard, factory built 4x4 vehicles are not recommended, especially those with an extended chassis for an extra cab.

The O'Brien store at the intersection of Highway 199 and Lone Mountain Road is the last opportunity for gas, food and water. The next gas station is more than 50 miles away along this route.

The tour begins 4.1 miles from the O’Brien store where the historic Turnpike leaves Lone Mountain Road and climbs westward to the ridges above the West Fork of the Illinois River.

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Disclaimer: All information in Highway199.org is accurate to the best knowledge of the author. However, conditions in outdoor settings can change dramatically after storms or fires. For this reason, travelers are advised to check current road conditions before traveling through the area, drive responsibly and take measures to understand safety issues in the region. When participating in outdoor activities, always plan and prepare for safe hiking, swimming or any other activities mentioned in the Highway 199 website. More on disclaimer and copyright...