Adventures in history: The old Redwood Highway of Oregon and California

Redwood Forest, California

The 1886 Gasquet Toll Road

IMPORTANT NOTE: This first section of the tour, also known as Howland Hill Road, is typically closed for one week in the late spring for regular road maintenance. Contact Redwood National and State Parks to get the latest information on Howland Hill Road. If the road is closed, follow the Highway 199 Road Guide to Gasquet and pick up the Old Redwood Stage Road Guide by clicking the link titled Gasquet below.

0.0 ZERO ODOMETER as turning on to Elk Valley Road from Highway 101

Elk Valley Road is probably the same route used by 1856 Turnpike and Puncheon Road constructed between Crescent City and the gold mining camps of southwest Oregon. A second route called the Wimer Road replaced the 1856 Turnpike Road but they both probably entered Crescent City by this same route. You will have a chance to see both the old Turnpike Road and the Wimer Road again later in the tour.

The old Redwood Highway climbs up Holand Hill from Crescent City as it heads for Oregon. 1.0 Howland Hill Road: TURN RIGHT to continue the tour. This is the beginning of the 1886 Gasquet Toll Road, one of three historic roads that make up the Old Redwood Stage Road tour. The photo to the right shows what this section of the road looked like in the days when it was actively used as the main transportation route between Crescent City and southwest Oregon.

Both the 1857 Turnpike and Puncheon Road and 1882 Wimer Road to Oregon went to the left at this intersection.

2.0 The road enters Redwood National Park and begins climbing Howland Hill. The road becomes narrow and there are not many places to pull over in this section of the tour to allow vehicles to pass. Drive cautiously.

2.5 Pavement ends. For the next half mile the road becomes a little rough with wash-boarding. The worst is at the sharp, right curve in the road at about mile 2.7 where tires have gouged out some prominent depressions along the inside of the curve.

3.0 The road reaches the top of Howland Hill and enters an old growth stand of redwood trees as it begins to descend into the Mill Creek drainage. A gate just over the top of this hill marks the boundary of Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park.

Howland Hill Road is graded in the early spring but during the summer and fall the traffic going over this road can create pot holes, especially in areas that have a little moisture. Drive slowly and maneuver the car to avoid pot holes when you encounter them.

Howland Hill Road is one-lane wide with many turnouts. Due to the number of vehicles that travel the route, it is not uncommon to meet cars coming from the other direction. If you meet another car, pull into the closest turnout and let the other car pass. If a faster moving car comes up behind you, please use turnouts to let them pass.

A picture of the old road is seen below left. On the right, the road as it appears today.

The old Redwood Highway, or Gasquet Toll Road went through the redwood forest to get to Crescent City, California. Howland Hill Road in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park follows the same route through the redwoods as the old Redwood Highway.

4.6 Nickerson Ranch Trail (right): The trailhead on the right is difficult to find and you may see the footbridge crossing the creek below the road before you see the trailhead. This is a relatively level path through a mix of redwood and western hemlock trees and connects to the Mill Creek Trail making it possible to walk through the woods and along the creek, then return to your parked vehicle along the road. The total distance of the loop is about three miles of fairly level walking.

Across the road from the Nickerson Ranch Trail and about 100 feet in the direction of Crescent City is a short, unmarked trail that goes up to a section of the old plank road. Planks, or puncheons, of redwood were used as a make-shift pavement to prevent cars from sinking in the mud during winter months. A picture of the old plank road is seen below, left. Follow the unmarked trail for about 100 feet to the old road and go to the left. Look on the ground for what is left of the old redwood planks. In the picture below, right two planks can be seen between the plants.

Some portions of the old Redwood Highway, also known as the Gasquet Toll Road, were covered with planks of redwood to make a solid surface for roads to drive over in wet weather. A part of the old plank road can be found next to Howland Hill Road in Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park near Crescent City, California.

As you continue your drive, look for the stumps of redwood trees next to the road. These were probably cut down during the construction of this road around 1885 to provide wood for bridges and the plank road. The trees were cut high because the trunk is thinner about 10 feet off the ground. Note the square holes where slats of wood were put for the loggers to stand on and cut the trees. The picture to the right shows a logger standing on one of these boards. The holes on these stumps may look too shallow to hold a board but remember that the bark that once covered these stumps was about a foot thick.

4.7 Boy Scout Trail (left): The first quarter mile of this trail is fairly level and has a good stand of redwood trees for those who want to take a stroll through the redwoods. The trail then begins to climb steeply and enters a forest predominantly of hemlock trees. The destination of the trail is a redwood tree that has been dedicated to Boy Scout troop leaders.

5.0 Mill Creek Trail (right): This trail offers a fairly level and easy hike if you want to get out and take a walk. This trail is connected to the Nickerson Ranch Trail, which makes it possible to hike up this trail and return to the road on the Nickerson Ranch Trail and then walk back on the road to your car. The total distance of the loop is about three miles of fairly level walking.

5.5 Mill Creek Trail (left). This is one of the more popular hikes in the area and takes you for three miles through the redwood forest and along Mill Creek to the Smith River. During the summer, a temporary foot bridge makes it possible to cross Mill Creek to the Stout Grove. On the other side of the road from the Mill Creek trailhead is a section of the 1886 Gasquet Toll Road that goes down to where it crossed Mill Creek.

5.6 Mill Creek Bridge. After crossing the bridge, look on the right to see where the old road climbed up from the river crossing. A large stump is seen to the right of the road bed.

6.9 Stout Grove Road (tour continues straight ahead): Stout Grove is a world class redwood forest and well worth the stop if you want to take the short loop trail.

8.1 Pavement begins as you exit Jedediah Smith Redwood State Park. You are entering a residential area for the next mile. Please drive slow through these areas. As you continue you will drive through a covered bridge that was constructed in the 1970s to commemorate the bicentennial of the United States.

9.3 South Fork Road: TURN LEFT and drive over the bridge to continue the tour.
South Fork Bridge was originally a swinging bridge used by stagecoaches and later by automobiles. In the picture below, you will be entering from the right side.

The swinging bridge over the South Fork of the Smith River must have presented an unusual technicality for drivers traveling the old Redwood Highway between Grants Pass, Oregon and Crescent City, California. A sign on the swinging bridge warned both drivers of cars and riders on horseback to cross the bridge slowly.

9.5 A faint road on the right just before the Forest Service sign takes you up to the Old Redwood Stage Road where it begins its climb up a ridge on the east side of the Smith River. The old road continues on this side of the river but you will be crossing to follow Highway 199 on the other side. The next seven miles of the tour will be the only part of the tour that does not follow the historic road.

10.0 Highway 199. ZERO ODOMETER and TURN RIGHT to continue the tour.

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The Old Redwood Highway Road Guide and photography by Roger Brandt. Historic photos courtesy of the Del Norte County Historic Society and Josephine County Historic Society.

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Disclaimer: All information in Highway199.org is accurate to the best knowledge of the author. However, conditions in outdoor settings can change dramatically after storms or fires. For this reason, travelers are advised to check current road conditions before traveling through the area, drive responsibly and take measures to understand safety issues in the region. When participating in outdoor activities, always plan and prepare for safe hiking, swimming or any other activities mentioned in the Highway 199 website. More on disclaimer and copyright...